ARTICLE
Insight
How to Overcome the Challenge of “Having the Technology but Being Unable to Communicate It”? Unraveling J-Beauty’s Path to Success from the Front Lines of the Japanese and Korean Beauty Industries
J-Beauty (the Japanese cosmetics market) is undergoing a period of major transformation, marked by the relaxation of advertising regulations and the acceleration of overseas expansion. While boasting world-class quality, safety, and technological capabilities—particularly in skincare products—many manufacturers feel frustrated that they “can’t fully convey what they want to say.”
In this article, we interviewed Hwan Kim, who is well-versed in both the Japanese and South Korean markets and views the beauty industry from a global perspective. We spoke with him in detail about the latest trends in K-Beauty and the conditions necessary for J-Beauty to succeed in the global market.
Our Interview Guest
Hwan Kim
Senior Executive Officer, CEO of the Healthcare Company, euglena
He assumed his current position after working at Rohto Pharmaceutical, Fast Retailing, and Rakuten. He oversees euglena’s healthcare business. His nickname is “Fana.”
Pharmaceuticals and Medical Devices Act / Act Against Unjustifiable Premiums and Misleading Representations
――Having observed both the Japanese and South Korean markets, how do you view the current movement toward “J-Beauty” as a national strategy?
Mr. Kim (hereinafter, Kim):
To put it simply, I view it very positively. I personally use Japanese skincare products without hesitation, and I see this as a golden opportunity and a turning point to properly communicate Japan’s strengths—such as its overwhelming quality, safety, and cultural value—using global evaluation standards.
――When engaging with overseas markets, what specific points will be key?
Kim:
I believe we need to change the perception overseas that “Japanese products are said to be good, but it’s not clear exactly what makes them good or what their effects are.” To achieve this, it’s important not just to relax regulations, but to ensure that scientific data and evidence—showing “we’ve verified this much”—can be presented under a transparent regulatory framework.
Japanese companies also share a cultural affinity for achieving the maximum possible within established rules. The very fact that they strictly comply with Japan’s high regulatory standards for products made in Japan should become a powerful competitive advantage for J-Beauty.
The Evolution of K-Beauty: From “The Glamour of Social Media” to “Evidence and Inner Beauty
――I hear you’ve also sensed this shift in K-Beauty at recent trade shows in South Korea (such as In-Cosmetics Korea).
Kim:
Yes. While there used to be an aspect of flashy marketing driven by social media, overseas the mainstream trend is shifting toward data-driven claims based on clinical evidence, and K-Beauty is rapidly shifting its focus toward strengthening ingredients and evidence-based claims. At this year’s Technology Awards, ingredients related to the power of microorganisms and inner beauty also won awards.
While Japan prides itself on being the world leader in the abundance and safety of its ingredients, South Korea is also beginning to focus on clinical trials and research. I feel it is an urgent priority to establish clear standards that convey Japan’s fundamental strengths before their research accumulates further.
“We Have the Technology, But We Can’t Communicate It”: The Frustration on the Ground in Japan
――What kinds of challenges do you hear about from people working on the front lines in Japan?
Kim:
The biggest one is the frustration of “having the technology and research, but being unable to communicate it.” Countries like South Korea are very skilled at effectively promoting their products within a certain range of accepted expression, and at creating pathways that connect social media sharing to purchases—both online and in physical stores.
In contrast, in Japan, the scope of what can be said is narrow to begin with, and the pathways for spreading content via social media and driving traffic to stores are fragmented. Along with establishing clear guidelines for manufacturers on how much they are permitted to disclose, manufacturers themselves need to develop the ability to communicate effectively.
――Given the era of social media and AI, what kind of institutional frameworks and rules do you think are necessary?
Kan:
The key words are “reliability” and “safety.” Precisely because we live in an era of information overload where AI filters content, we need a balance between transparency—to prevent misperceptions—and claims grounded in scientific evidence.
I believe the path to success going forward lies in establishing rules that clearly define the required level of evidence—such as “if verification has reached this point, such claims are permissible”—and ensure objective validation by experts and third parties.
Three Approaches to Succeeding in the Global Market
――What approaches are needed to develop J-Beauty as a national strategic industry?
Kim:
I’ve organized this into three categories: “Systems,” “Research,” and “Leadership.”
Standardization and unification of factors such as the number of test subjects, evaluation periods, and evaluation formats. Additionally, establishing clear criteria for claims that allow for “the explicit specification of numerical values based on scientific evidence.”
Revising systems to ensure that the results of basic research, ingredients, and biotechnology—areas in which Japanese companies have delved deeply for many years—can be accurately evaluated and communicated according to international standards.
For issues spanning multiple agencies—such as the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry, the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare, and the Consumer Affairs Agency—we need to clarify a leadership role (a “standard-bearer”) that, like South Korea, is government-led, cuts across organizational boundaries, and strongly drives support for exports and trade shows.
I believe that only when these three elements come together can we achieve a regulatory framework that balances both reliability and communication power.
Combining Technological Innovation with Brand Credibilit
――Finally, please tell us about the unique strengths of J-Beauty and how you plan to promote its appeal in the future.
Kim:
The basic research, meticulous formulation design, high standards of quality and safety, and accumulated expertise in technologies leveraging inner beauty and microorganisms that Japan has cultivated are its unshakable strengths. Furthermore, recent “innovative approaches”—such as combining existing technologies with those from industries outside the beauty sector (for example, the mechanisms of pens used in stationery)—as seen in cushion foundations and needle-based products, hold great potential for generating major innovations.
Even in markets like ASEAN, there is deep-rooted trust in Japan’s technological capabilities. If regulatory revisions allow us to accurately communicate these strengths on a global scale, J-Beauty’s position will become even more solid. I hope to convey the depth of Japan’s fundamental research to the world while building brand designs that integrate not only ingredients and functional value but also ethical values such as environmental stewardship and sustainability.
Summary
“We have great technology, but we can’t communicate it effectively”—to overcome this frustration in Japan, it is essential to clarify regulations and help manufacturers improve their ability to convey their messages.
Now, as we face significant changes, this seems to be the perfect opportunity for J-Beauty to further enhance its presence in the global market.
Text by Mai Kaneko
